Some Lir members traveled to the Wild West of Westport last weekend to go on a two-day sea kayaking & camping trip…and they lived to tell the tale! The trip was arranged through Saoirse na Mara Sea Kayaking with Ali Donald, a level 4 sea and river instructor, so we knew we were in very capable hands.
The trip began with the planning phase, which provided a nice taster of the planning that is involved with sea kayaking expeditions. We prepared all of our camping equipment, paddling gear, spare clothes, plenty of food…and we thought there was no way that it would all fit in our sea kayaks. However, it’s remarkable how much fits inside those hatches, and with a bit of careful packing we were ready to get on the water.
The weather was spectacular, clear skies and flat seas that were almost like glass at times. We started off from the beach at Oldhead and explored some nearby caves before moving along the coast. We stopped at a tiny beach for lunch, before ambling on our way, moving ever further east through hundreds of jelly fish. We followed the shore, overlooked by Croagh Patrick the whole time, and marveled at how unusual it was that the Reek was visible for so long, not a whisper of cloud in sight; It was almost as if the weather was lulling us into a false sense of security.
We continued north and then turned west, passing some of the small islands of Clew Bay until we landed on our home for the night, Dorinish Beg. Dorinish is one of 365 islands in Clew Bay, but it is the only one with a link to the pop culture of the 1960s & 70s, Imagine that! Dorinish is comprised of Dorinish Beg and Dorinish Mor, joined by a natural stone causeway, and was once owned by John Lennon. Beatles aficionados can read more about the John Lennon connection here.
Having unpacked the kayaks, Ali set about erecting the group teepee. The teepee came complete with a stove and chimney and it really made the trip for all of us. After a walk around the island, we started to prepare dinner and settled in for the night as the wind began to pick up outside. It was Saturday night, and the following day was Reek Sunday, the day on which up to 60,000 descend on Westport to climb Croagh Patrick. As darkness fell, we could see the head torches making their way up the long climb to the summit. Our visibility of the Reek was still good, but the winds were rising steadily and it was clear that a storm was on its way.
The forecast had been for strong winds that would pass overnight, however Met Eireann had underestimated just how strong the winds would get. They rose to gale force 8 through the night, and the teepee was tested to its limits. Ali made valiant efforts to anchor us down by adding rocks to the edges of the teepee and we brought paddles and paddling gear inside and tied up the kayaks. All the while, people climbed the Reek despite the fact that Mountain Rescue had by now issued notices that Reek Sunday was cancelled and that it was too dangerous to climb in these conditions.
The teepee held fast, with just a few leaks and a broken zip, so we all made it through the night safe and sound. Our only concern now was that the winds were still high and we had to kayak to get off the island and back to shore. This is where Ali’s experience was invaluable, for he had a multitude of plans developed for every possible scenario. The forecast was that the winds would die down and turn in our favour to push us back to shore, so we decided to wait it out and have a hearty breakfast before doing anything hasty.
The stove was fired up again so we were toasty warm as we ate our porridge and Full Irish (Carribean style) and by the time we had finished and packed up all of our gear, the winds had passed completely and we emerged from the teepee as though the storm had never happened. The Reek was shrouded in mist and rain and we worried for the climbers and rescuers, but luckily the conditions for us were nothing short of perfect.
We took to the near-flat water with lighter boats, having eaten half of our earlier load, and enjoyed a gentle wind on our backs as we island-hopped back towards Westport. We arrived into Westport Harbour at around 3.30pm with huge smiles and plenty of tales to tell. After the shuttle we rounded off the weekend with a swim at Oldhead before starting on the drive back East.
The West of Ireland is revered as the adventure capital of Ireland, and this weekend it certainly lived up to its name. We enjoyed every moment, from tranquil waters and sunshine to pitch-black caves, from seas full of jellyfish to a teepee filled with good food and great company. It reminded us of exactly why we love our sport so much, it opens up a world of opportunities to explore, a world that is very different when experienced from the perspective of a sea kayak or an uninhibited* island.
*intentional malapropism, what happens on an uninhibited island stays on an uninhibited island
You can view the route of our first day here: Navionics Webapp